By Robert M. Sorensen

The second one variation (1997) of this article was once a totally rewritten model of the unique textual content simple Coastal Engineering released in 1978. This 3rd variation makes numerous corrections, advancements and additions to the second one version. uncomplicated Coastal Engineering is an introductory textual content on wave mechanics and coastal techniques besides basics that underline the perform of coastal engineering. This ebook was once written for a senior or first postgraduate path in coastal engineering. it's also compatible for self examine through somebody having a uncomplicated engineering or actual technology heritage. the extent of insurance doesn't require a math or fluid mechanics heritage past that awarded in a customary undergraduate civil or mechanical engineering curriculum. the fabric p- sented during this textual content is predicated at the author’s lecture notes from a one-semester path at Virginia Polytechnic Institute, Texas A&M collage, and George Washington collage, and a senior optionally available path at Lehigh collage. The textual content includes examples to illustrate many of the research ideas which are awarded and every bankruptcy (except the 1st and final) has a suite of difficulties for the reader to unravel that additional display and extend upon the textual content fabric. bankruptcy 1 in brief describes the coastal atmosphere and introduces the re- tively new box of coastal engineering. bankruptcy 2 describes the two-dimensional features of floor waves and provides the small-amplitude wave thought to aid this description.

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**Example text**

A 100-m long device that converts wave motion to electric power is installed parallel to the shore in water 6 m deep. If the device is 45% eYcient what power is generated? 28. Demonstrate that the velocity potential deWned by Eq. 9) does represent irrotational Xow. 29. A wave with a period of 7 s propagates toward the shore from deep water. Using the limit presented in this chapter, at what water depth does it become a shallow water wave? If the deep water wave height is 1 m would this wave break before reaching the shallow water depth?

C) Is the wave passing the gage a deep water wave? If not, what would the equivalent deep water length, celerity, group celerity, energy, and energy density be? Compare these values to those in part a. (d) Calculate the wave height as a function of distance along the slope from the toe to the point at which the wave breaks. 2. An ocean bottom-mounted pressure sensor measures a reversing pressure as a train of swells propagates past the sensor toward the shore. 5 s period and vary from a maximum of 54:3 kN=m2 to a minimum of 41:2 kN=m2 .

Then, k ¼ 2p=93:3 ¼ 0:0673 mÀ1 and from Eq. 38) n¼ 1 2(0:0673)(10) 1þ ¼ 0:874 2 sinh (2(0:0673)(10) With Kr ¼ 1, Eq. 42) yields sﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃﬃ 156 H¼2 ¼ 1:97 m 2(0:874)(93:3) At the crest of the wave cos (kx À st) ¼ 1, and z ¼ À1, so Eq. 21) gives u¼ ! p(1:97) cosh (0:0673)(9) ¼ 1:01 m=s 10 sinh (0:0673)(10) which is the total particle velocity since w ¼ 0 under the wave crest. 32) gives ! 1000(9:81)(1:97) cosh (0:0673)9 P ¼ À1000(9:81)( À 1) þ 2 cosh (0:0673)10 ¼ 19; 113 N=m2 Remember, Eqs.